One of the first stumbling blocks when learning to wear a kimono is how to overlap the collar.
It’s easy to get confused about which side goes on top, especially for beginners—but that’s exactly why it’s one of the most important basics to remember.
The way you arrange the collar changes the entire impression of the kimono. A neatly aligned collar looks elegant, while a slightly loosened one creates a relaxed, casual feel.
However, there is one rule that must never be broken: the distinction between right-over-left and left-over-right.
In this article, we’ll explore the essential rules of kimono collar overlap, along with the etiquette for different occasions.
🔶The Meaning of Right-Over-Left and Left-Over-Right
The first thing to learn about kimono collars is the difference between right-over-left and left-over-right.
- Right-over-left: From your own perspective, the right side of the collar is tucked underneath, and the left side lies on top.
- Left-over-right: The opposite arrangement, with the left collar underneath and the right collar on top.
The correct style is always right-over-left. This is the standard for all everyday kimono wear.
This custom is said to have taken root during the Nara period, when Japan adopted elements of Tang dynasty culture. From that time onward, wearing the kimono right-over-left became the norm and has been passed down to the present day.
🔶Why Left-Over-Right Must Be Avoided
So why must left-over-right be avoided?
The answer lies deep in Japanese culture and views on life and death.
For centuries, the custom has been to dress the deceased in left-over-right.
Influenced by Buddhism, this practice symbolizes the boundary between the world of the living and the world beyond.
Because of this, if a living person wears a kimono left-over-right, it is seen as wearing funeral attire. It carries a strong sense of bad luck.
From a visual perspective as well, the reversed collar overlap looks unnatural. In photographs, it can appear messy or out of place.
At life’s important milestones—such as coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, or graduations—this is something you especially want to avoid.
Both culturally and practically, the reasons are clear: left-over-right must not be worn in everyday kimono.
Since kimonos are often chosen for once-in-a-lifetime occasions, getting the collar right ensures you will be remembered with elegance, not regret.
🔶How to Remember the Correct Collar Overlap
Even if you know the difference between right-over-left and left-over-right, many people still find themselves hesitating—“Wait, which side was correct again?”
Especially if you don’t wear kimono often, it can be hard to build a natural sense of collar overlap. Here are some easy tricks to help you remember:
❀ The “y” shape at the collar
From the front, the neckline should form the shape of a lowercase “y.” This naturally creates a right-over-left overlap. Think of it as “y for you”—a simple way to make the rule stick in your memory.
❀ Easy access for the right hand
Kimono are designed with right-handed movement in mind. With the correct overlap, the right hand can easily slip into the front fold of the kimono. This is the opposite of how buttons close on Western clothing, so it helps to keep this difference in mind when starting out.
❀ Check the pattern placement
Kimono patterns are arranged so they look beautiful to others viewing from the outside. By making sure the more decorative side of the fabric shows on the outside, the collar naturally falls into the correct right-over-left position.
Tips to Keep in Mind
❖ Watch out for mirrored photos
Smartphone front cameras sometimes flip the image. Even if you are wearing the collar correctly as right-over-left, the photo may appear reversed as left-over-right. Always double-check before posting on social media.
❖ Always right-over-left—even for undergarments and yukata
The same rule applies to everything: undergarments (hadajuban and nagajuban) as well as summer yukata. In all forms of traditional dress, right-over-left is the absolute rule to remember.
In fact, at kimono dressing classes and beauty salons, instructors always begin by reminding students: “Right-over-left.” That’s how fundamental this rule is.
Once you learn it, there’s no need to hesitate again—and it gives you peace of mind whenever you put on a kimono.
🔶Kimono Collar Etiquette: Dressing for Time, Place, and Occasion
Just as with Western clothing—when you might decide whether to button up your shirt collar or leave the top button open—the kimono also has collar etiquette that changes depending on the occasion.
With just a small adjustment to the collar overlap, the same kimono can give a completely different impression.
✿ Formal occasions (weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, etc.)
The collar should meet at a nearly right angle, neatly aligned. This creates a sense of cleanliness and dignity, perfectly suited for solemn events.
✿ Casual settings (dinners with friends, social gatherings, etc.)
By loosening the collar slightly and opening it at a shallower angle, the look becomes more relaxed and approachable. It also adds a stylish touch without feeling too stiff.
✿ Everyday kimono wear
Adjust the collar angle according to age and body type for the best overall balance. A sharper, right-angled overlap looks crisp on younger or slimmer wearers, while a softer angle of about 60 degrees feels natural and sophisticated for mature or fuller figures.
The angle of the kimono collar may seem like a small detail, but even the slightest adjustment can transform the overall impression.
When you dress with an awareness of time, place, and occasion, your appearance immediately feels more refined.
Even with the same homongi (formal visiting kimono), the collar angle makes a dramatic difference: a sharp, right angle creates a dignified presence, while a softer angle conveys warmth and composure.
These subtle adjustments are what reveal the true depth and elegance of kimono.
🔶Conclusion
The rule of kimono collars is absolute: it must always be right-over-left.
Because left-over-right is reserved for the deceased, it should never be worn in everyday life.
That said, once you’ve mastered the correct overlap, you can adjust the collar angle to suit the occasion. With this small change, the same kimono can be styled for both formal and casual settings.
The impression created by the collar alone is profound. By understanding the basics and then adapting them to express your own style, the kimono becomes not only approachable but also a source of confidence and grace in your life.
🔸Column: Fumi’s Kimono Diary ✿
The other day, I helped a friend put on a kimono. Standing in front of the mirror, she hesitated—“Which side goes on top again?” Watching her, I realized once more that the collar overlap is often the first big hurdle.
But the moment I adjusted it to the correct right-over-left, her entire appearance changed. Her posture became dignified, and even her expression seemed transformed.
Seeing that, I was reminded of how much a simple detail at the collar can alter a person’s presence.
Collar overlap is not just a rule of etiquette—it feels almost like a magic spell that allows us to enjoy the beauty of kimono to the fullest.
I hope to continue sharing this little “magic” with care, so more people can discover the charm of wearing kimono.
