September marks the transition from hitoe to sheer fabrics.
This article offers temperature- and TPO-based guidelines, plus styling ideas ranging from formal to casual.
For those who want to learn more about the types of usumono (sheer kimono) and how to choose matching obi and accessories,
please also check out the related article: “Usumono Kimono: Types, Obi & Accessories”
Kimono in September: What to Wear by Temperature (°C)?
The season for hitoe (unlined kimono) is generally considered to be from May to June, and again in September. However, in practice, it is important to adjust flexibly according to the year’s climate and your own physical condition.
On days when the heat is severe, it’s better to prioritize comfort over strictly following the seasonal rules—you’ll feel better and stay comfortable for longer.
Especially in September, when the lingering summer heat can be harsh, choosing materials with a sense of translucence or cool, refreshing colors will make it easier to spend your day comfortably.
The season for hitoe (unlined kimono) is generally from May to June, and again in September.
※When the temperature is 25°C or below: wear hitoe as a rule.
It is important to adjust flexibly according to the climate and your physical condition.
※When the temperature is 28°C or above: lightweight, sheer fabrics or high-performance materials are also useful.
On hot days, choose comfort first and you’ll feel at ease.
In September, when the lingering heat remains, sheer fabrics and refreshing colors are especially effective.
▶ Tips for Formal Occasions and Tea Ceremonies
At formal gatherings or tea ceremonies, an outfit that reflects the changing seasons leaves a favorable impression.
For example, in early summer, choose refreshing motifs that evoke water or fresh greenery.
In early autumn, pairing obi or accessories with seasonal motifs such as autumn leaves or chrysanthemums adds elegance.
Even simply switching the colors of your obijime or obiage to seasonal shades can make a significant difference in your overall look.
Seasonal motifs and colors create an elegant impression
Simply changing your obiage or obijime to seasonal colors can instantly elevate the look.
In early summer, motifs that evoke water or fresh greenery are recommended,
while in early autumn, designs featuring autumn leaves or chrysanthemums are perfect choices.
▶ Using High-Performance Fabric “Ceo Alpha”
A material that has recently been gaining popularity is Ceo Alpha, developed by Toray.
It offers excellent sweat absorption and quick-drying properties, so it doesn’t feel sticky and dries quickly—perfect for summer wear.
Another advantage is that it resists wrinkles and can be washed at home.
Its appearance is naturally silk-like, making it suitable for both hitoe (unlined kimono) and summer garments.
This makes it especially useful during the lingering heat of late summer.
It is also ideal for travel or long outings, and is favored by a wide range of wearers—from beginners to experienced kimono enthusiasts.
Comfortable even when sweating, thanks to sweat-absorbing and quick-drying properties
Resistant to wrinkles and easy to wash at home
Silk-like natural appearance, convenient for late summer and travel
Basics of Hitoe and Sheer Kimono
September is the perfect time to shift into hitoe (unlined kimono), as the summer heat gradually eases.
Among them, autumn hitoe especially shines with cool colors and seasonal floral patterns, where delicate designs highlight the feeling of autumn even more.
● Hitoe (Unlined Kimono)
A hitoe is a kimono made without a lining, typically worn in June and September.
Those worn in June are called spring hitoe, while those in September are referred to as autumn hitoe.
Autumn hitoe are characterized by incorporating autumnal colors, patterns, and fabrics.
They play the role of gradually shifting from the cool, airy feeling of midsummer to a deeper seasonal atmosphere.
The fabric is lighter than that of a lined kimono (awase), yet sturdier than sheer summer garments (usumono), making it comfortable for transitional weather.
Common materials include tsumugi (pongee), chirimen (crepe), komon (small-patterned kimono), and iromuji (plain-colored kimono). The seasonal feel can be further adjusted with the choice of obi and accessories.
September hitoe are especially versatile: on warmer days, lighter colors give a refreshing look, while on occasions where you want to emphasize autumn, deeper shades create an elegant seasonal expression.
Key Points about Hitoe (Unlined Kimono)
・Mainly worn in June (spring hitoe) and September (autumn hitoe). Depending on the climate, they can also be used from late May through early October.
・For autumn hitoe, expressing seasonal depth with colors, patterns, and accessories is important.
・For formal occasions, choose autumn hitoe without a sheer look, while for casual settings in lingering heat, prioritize cool and breathable fabrics.
Materials for Hitoe (Unlined Kimono)
| Material | Features & Uses |
|---|---|
| Cotton / Cotton blends | Ideal for everyday wear and casual outings. On lingering hot days, hemp blends can also be used. |
| Chirimen (crepe) / Omeshi | Resistant to wrinkles, with a refined luster that makes it suitable even for semi-formal occasions. |
| Iromuji (plain-dyed kimono) / Edo Komon | A standard choice for hitoe that can be worn even to formal gatherings when paired appropriately. |
Expressing the Season: Using Accessories to Reflect September
| Timing | Obiage, Obijime, and Accessory Ideas |
|---|---|
| Early September (lingering summer heat) | Leave a refreshing impression with white or light cool tones (such as light blue or mint green). |
| Mid to Late September | Incorporate deeper autumn colors such as persimmon orange, grape purple, and moss green, or add seasonal motifs like autumn leaves and chrysanthemums through accessories. |
● Usumono (Sheer Summer Kimono)
Usumono refers to kimono made from sheer summer fabrics such as ro or sha, mainly worn in July and August.
In early September, when the lingering summer heat is still severe, it is perfectly acceptable to prioritize comfort and choose usumono.
For details on when to wear usumono and how to choose them according to TPO, see the related article: “Wearing Seasons and TPO for Ro, Sha, and Other Summer Kimono | Basics of Summer Kimono”
For tips on types of usumono, as well as how to select obi and accessories, please refer to: Usumono Kimono: Types, Obi & Accessories
As a general guideline, usumono (sheer fabrics) are suitable for early September, while hitoe (unlined kimono) become the standard from mid-September onward.
However, it’s best to adapt flexibly according to the temperature and the occasion (TPO).
How to Choose Kimono According to TPO
September is a seasonal transition, and the appropriate kimono varies depending on the temperature and occasion.
From formal to casual settings, and even special events such as tea ceremonies,
choosing an outfit that suits each TPO allows you to enjoy both comfort and a sense of the season.
▶ Formal Occasions
From September 1st, it is customary to wear hitoe (unlined kimono).
For ceremonies and official events, avoid sheer summer fabrics,
and instead choose an autumn hitoe that combines both seasonal elegance and formality.
▶ Casual Occasions
When the lingering summer heat is intense, it is perfectly fine to wear sheer summer fabrics (usumono).
They are recommended for relaxed settings such as strolling around town, dining with friends, or casual gatherings.
▶ Tea Ceremonies and Special Events
Until Chōyō no Sekku (the Double Ninth Festival) on September 9, it is acceptable to wear usumono (sheer summer kimono).
In tea gatherings in particular, where seasonal awareness is highly valued, incorporating touches of autumn through your obi or accessories will leave an even better impression.
Kimono Coordination Examples for September
September is a time of seasonal transition—while the heat often lingers during the day, the mornings and evenings can feel cool.
For this reason, it is important to balance comfort and a sense of season by switching appropriately between hitoe (unlined kimono) and usumono (sheer summer kimono).
By selecting your outfit according to TPO, you can add elegance to your look and enjoy kimono styles unique to September.
Usumono (Sheer Kimono) Coordination
▶ Formal Style
Ro Homongi (Formal Kimono)
A ro homongi, with its sheer texture, helps ease the lingering summer heat while maintaining a formal appearance.
Pair it with a summer fukuro obi, and by incorporating autumn motifs—such as bellflowers or bush clover—you can create an elegant sense of anticipating the season.
▶ Semi-Formal Style
Iromuji with One Crest
This refined ensemble features a ro iromuji (plain-colored kimono) paired with a white summer Nagoya obi.
By adding a single crest on the back, it becomes appropriate for formal occasions such as tea ceremonies or small-scale ceremonies.
Combining a subdued base color with soft-toned accessories creates a neat and elegant impression, perfectly suited for early autumn.
▶ Casual Style
Tsumugi Kimono
In casual outfits, comfort (adjusting to body temperature) can be prioritized.
Wearing breathable fabrics such as summer Oshima or hemp, paired with a ro or sha hanhaba obi, allows you to stay comfortable for long periods.
This style is perfect for nearby outings or casual meals. By adding playful touches with accessories like obidome or netsuke, you can enjoy the lingering summer heat while still achieving a polished look.
Styling with Hitoe (Unlined Kimono)
▶ Formal Style
Unlined Homongi for Early Autumn
Because hitoe homongi or tsukesage do not have a sheer look, they are a standard choice for September and make it easier to maintain formality even in formal settings.
By pairing them with a highly formal fukuro obi, the outfit becomes well-suited for autumn events or tea ceremonies, creating an ensemble that reflects the changing of the seasons.
▶ Semi-Formal Style
Edo Komon
Edo komon and plain-colored hitoe are highly versatile kimono that, with the addition of a crest, can also be worn in formal settings.For September, choose light tones and pair them with non-sheer fukuro obi to maintain formality.For business scenes or formal dinners, add sophisticated autumn colors to your obiage or obijime (e.g., dark gray, subdued brown) to balance both coolness and a sense of seasonality.
💡 A light-toned Edo komon with a crest avoids a heavy look and creates a refined yet light formality, perfectly suited for September.
For autumn hitoe, choosing obi and accessories with minimal shibo (fabric texture) brings the outfit together in an even more elegant way.
※ About Edo Komon
Edo komon is known as a kimono with a wide range of formality, and having one tailored as a hitoe makes it very versatile.
In particular, the three classic patterns known as san’yaku—sharkskin (same), orderly lines (gyōgi), and interlocking squares (kakutōshi)—can be worn even for formal occasions when a crest is added.
For semi-formal settings, pairing it with a fukuro obi woven with gold or silver threads creates a festive elegance,
while for celebratory occasions or tea gatherings, coordinating with a nine-inch Nagoya obi gives a refined finish.
Its ability to adapt to a wide variety of situations through different patterns and obi choices is what makes Edo komon so appealing.
▶ Casual Style
Tsumugi and Hitoe Komon Kimono
Hitoe kimono made of cotton or cotton blends are highly breathable, making them ideal for everyday wear, strolling around town, or attending the theater.By pairing them with lightweight obi such as hemp Nagoya obi or hanhaba obi, you can stay comfortable even during long outings.By being mindful of “the beginning of autumn” and incorporating deep autumn colors—such as grape, mustard brown, or matcha green—into your obi and accessories, you can capture a sense of the season while still enjoying the refreshing qualities of summer fabrics.
💡 For yellow-toned kimono, add an accent with a red-based obi.
In early September, keep a sense of coolness with bright colors, while from mid-September onward, subtly incorporate autumn motifs—such as maple leaves or chestnuts—through obidome or other accessories for a stylish touch.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
**Q. In September, should I wear hitoe or usumono?**
A. In early September, when the lingering summer heat is severe, usumono (sheer fabrics) are acceptable. From mid-September onward, hitoe (unlined kimono) are the standard. For formal occasions, it is safer to switch to hitoe earlier.
**Q. What should I do for formal settings such as tea ceremonies?**
A. Until the Double Ninth Festival (Chōyō no Sekku) on September 9, usumono may still be worn. However, it is important to add an autumnal touch with your obi, obiage, or obijime.
**Q. What are some tips for everyday wear?**
A. Hitoe made of cotton or tsumugi are comfortable and practical. Adding autumn-colored obi or accessories creates a seasonal look. On hotter days, hemp or usumono can still be used.
**Q. What is appropriate for formal occasions such as weddings or celebrations in September?**
A. The basic choice is a hitoe homongi or tsukesage (avoid ro). If the heat is severe, adjust with a fukuro obi made from cool-feeling fabrics. Sheer materials should be avoided as a matter of etiquette.
**Q. Are there any points to keep in mind if I wear usumono on hot days in September?**
A. Even when wearing usumono, choose autumnal motifs and colors (e.g., deeper shades). Coordinating obiage and obijime in autumn tones helps maintain seasonality. From mid-September onward, switching to hitoe is the safest option.
**Q. How should I choose the materials and colors of obiage and obijime in September?**
A. Transition from summer styles (lace or openwork designs) to kumihimo cords suitable for hitoe. For obiage, shift from ro to autumn fabrics such as rinzu or chirimen without transparency. Colors should lean toward deeper, autumnal tones.
**Q. Is it acceptable to continue using summer obi (ra or sha) in September?**
A. For casual settings or in the intense heat of early September, they are still acceptable. However, it is best to incorporate autumn materials and colors in your obiage and obijime so that the overall impression feels seasonal.
Conclusion
Wearing hitoe (unlined kimono) is not only about following seasonal rules but also about adjusting flexibly to the temperature and your own comfort.
For formal occasions, incorporating seasonal motifs into your obi and accessories creates an elegant impression,
while in everyday life, prioritizing comfort allows you to enjoy wearing kimono for longer periods.
In recent years, high-performance fabrics such as Ceo Alpha, which excel in sweat absorption and quick-drying, have become popular and are especially useful during the lingering summer heat.
Aim for kimono choices that balance both personal expression and comfort.
By skillfully switching between hitoe and usumono in September, you can stay comfortable while also highlighting the sense of season.
For details on the types of usumono (sheer kimono) and how to coordinate them with accessories,
please see the related article: “Usumono Kimono: Types, Obi & Accessories“
✿ Column: Fumi’s Kimono Diary ✿
In fact, the first time I wore a hitoe (unlined kimono) was also in September.
It was decades ago, and back then autumn seemed to arrive earlier—the mornings and evenings were already quite cool.
Still, during the day I would sometimes break a sweat and wonder to myself, “Maybe I should have worn a lined kimono instead?”
But I clearly remember the moment a cool breeze passed through, and I thought with delight, “Ah, this is the comfort of hitoe.”
These days, September often brings lingering summer heat, so finding ways to adapt while feeling the difference from the past has become one of the modern pleasures of wearing kimono.
