Japanese textile and dyeing techniques are highly regarded worldwide for their exquisite beauty as traditional crafts and their practicality in daily use.
This article offers a clear and accessible introduction to the basic materials, fibers, and threads used in kimono fabrics.
🔶 Basics of Fibers and Threads
Fabric is made by weaving together threads, which are created from fibers.
A fiber is defined as a fine, flexible substance that is at least 800 times longer than its width or diameter.
These fibers are bundled into threads, which are then woven into cloth.
There are two main types of threads:
- Filament fibers: Long, continuous fibers such as raw silk or synthetic fibers
- Staple fibers: Short fibers like cotton or wool, which are spun together to form a thread
🔶 Types and Classifications of Fibers
Natural and Chemical Fibers
Fibers are broadly classified into two main categories based on their origin:
- Natural fibers: Derived from nature (animals, plants, or minerals)
- Chemical fibers (man-made fibers): Created or processed through chemical synthesis or treatment
Types of Natural Fibers
●Animal Fibers
Examples:
- Silk
- Bombyx mori (cultivated silk / domesticated silkworm)
- Wild silk (natural silk from wild silkworms) - Hair fibers
- Wool (sheep)
- Cashmere (goat)
- Alpaca
- Camel
- Angora (rabbit)
● Plant-Based Fibers
Examples by type:
- Seed fibers
- Cotton
- Kapok - Bast fibers (fibers from the inner bark of plants)
- Ramie (choma / 蕁麻)
- Jute (kōma / 黄麻)
- Wisteria
- Paper mulberry (kōzo)
- Banana fiber (bashō)
- Abacá (Manila hemp) - Fruit fibers
- Coconut fiber (coir) - Others
- Windmill palm (shuro)
- Rush grass (igusa) – commonly used in tatami mats
※Mineral-based fibers (e.g., asbestos) also exist, but they are not used in kimono or clothing materials.
Therefore, they are not covered in this article.
Types of Chemical Fibers
Each type of chemical fiber has unique characteristics.
In recent years, blended fabrics that combine chemical and natural fibers have become increasingly common.
● Regenerated fibers (cellulose-based)
Made from natural materials such as wood pulp.
Examples: Rayon, Cupro, Polynosic
● Semi-synthetic fibers
Derived from natural sources (cellulose or protein) and chemically processed.
Examples: Acetate, Triacetate, Promix
● Synthetic fibers
Completely man-made materials derived from petroleum or natural gas.
Examples: Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Vinylon (Kuraray, Unitika)
🔶 Types and Structures of Threads
Classification of Threads by Manufacturing Method
| Method | Description | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Silk reeling | Extracting raw silk from cocoons | Silk |
| Filament spinning | Producing chemical fibers through synthetic processes | Synthetic fibers |
| Spinning | Twisting short fibers into threads | Cotton, wool, etc. |
In addition, there are special decorative threads such as gold thread, silver thread, and lacquered thread used for ornamental purposes.
Units for Measuring Thread Thickness
| Unit | Description |
|---|---|
| Denier (D) | A unit used for measuring the thickness of filament (long) fibers. The higher the number, the thicker the thread. |
| Count (S) | A unit used for measuring the thickness of spun (short) yarns. The higher the number, the finer the thread. |
About Twisted Threads (Nenshi)
Twisting (nenshi) refers to the process of twisting threads to change their strength, texture, and appearance.
There are two main twist directions:
- S-twist (right-hand twist): Twisted clockwise, resembling the letter S
- Z-twist (left-hand twist): Twisted counterclockwise, resembling the letter Z
The number of twists per meter also affects the thread’s characteristics:
| Twist Strength | Approx. Twist Count (per meter) | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|
| Low twist (ama-nenshi) | ~300 or fewer | Soft and fluffy (e.g., gauze) |
| Normal twist (nami-nenshi) | ~1000 or fewer | Standard twist for general use |
| High twist (kyo-nenshi) | ~1000 or more | Firm texture with a crisp feel |
Types of Twisted Threads
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Single-direction twist (kata-nenshi) | One or several single yarns twisted in the same direction |
| Double twist (moro-nenshi) | Threads are twisted once, then multiple of them are twisted again together (e.g., koma-nenshi, kabe-nenshi) |
Note: The classification and twist count guidelines are based on information provided by the Japan Textile Products Quality and Technology Center .(QTEC, 一般財団法人 日本繊維製品品質技術センター).
The way a thread is twisted can greatly affect its texture and intended use. Let’s take a look at the differences between the two main types: S-twist and Z-twist.
What Is Seiren (Degumming)?
Raw silk, the base thread of silk fabrics, consists of fibroin (the core protein of silk) and sericin, a gummy protein that coats the fibroin.
Seiren, or degumming, is the process of removing sericin and other impurities from raw silk.
Depending on when this process is performed, silk fabrics are categorized into two types:
- Pre-degummed fabrics (Sakineri orimono): The thread is degummed before weaving.
- Post-degummed fabrics (Atoneri orimono): The degumming is done after the fabric has been woven.
In high-grade silk textiles, especially those emphasizing luster and texture, the method and timing of seiren play a crucial role.
🔶 Conclusion
The fibers and threads used in kimono fabrics play a vital role in determining their texture, feel, and functionality.
By understanding the differences between materials, you can better care for your kimono and choose the right fabric for each occasion.
As you explore the basics of textile and dyeing, we hope you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the rich world of traditional Japanese weaving.
